23 April 2008
Roast My Marrow
The highest climber in this years 50 best restaurants list is Fergus Henderson's iconic St. John, in London.
We love the man's books, and his food, and here is what our man in the Sunny South-East, Eamon Barret, made of a recent visit:
Star of the trip was dinner in St John, Fergus Henderson's spartan restaurant in the City.
It's the simplest of spaces, so trimmed down it could be a canteen. For starter I had venison heart with beetroot and walnut, an amazing dish, the heart sliced paper thin, its delicate cut offsetting the strong flavour. I almost went for the chitterlings but the waiter recommended the tripe and sausage as being particularly good, and so it was, a lovely stew with white beans. Ju had slow roasted lamb, beautifully pink. The dessert was a pear and treacle steamed pudding for two, served with a large jug of hot homemade custard, just amazing. Definitely on the list of London places we would go back to.
And that is also the verdict of most chefs, as St John is also the chef's choice in the Restaurant magazine list.
www.fergushenderson.co.uk